Every Which Way …

Posted on November 22, 2011 by GuestBlogger

Every winter I’m bombarded with people asking me what they can do with their horse. The thought of spending more than five minutes in a school seems to fill them with dread. It shouldn’t! Schooling is only exercise. Anyone can do it. School your horse this winter and you’ll be ready for the shows next year.

Often it’s not just what to do that is the problem – it’s having the time to do it – especially if you want to jump. Getting jumps in and out for half an hour’s riding can seem like a real effort and you end up staying on the flat even though you know you ought to be jumping.

In the past I’ve had four or five horses to school in one arena. Some over fences others on the flat and with time a big problem – especially in the winter – I quickly learnt how to maximise the use of a single fence.

Too often riders put a couple of fences up at E and B. That’s so limiting and incredibly dull. Build a fence at X and there are at least six directions you can jump it from and you can shorten or lengthen the approach or landing.

You may be thinking “What about the warm up cross pole?” Well that’s your choice. Put one at E/B out of the way if you need one. Personally I warmed my horses up well enough and kept the fences at a reasonable height. When you consider the first fence you might have to jump straight from the Meet on a day’s hunting it makes you wonder why we bother warming up at all!

Not only is the height of your fence important – you’re here to get some practice in over some fences not jump a puissance – its jumpability is important too. You must build a fence that’s jumpable from all directions. It needs to have a straight top pole and if you opt for a spread it needs two top rails at the same height and ground poles on either side. For schooling an upright is just as useful unless you need to practise spreads for a reason. (And you only need two poles)

With your fence in place you can now jump a continuous course of fences without filling the school up with jumps. What could have taken you an hour to set up has taken you five minutes and it can stay there without affecting any other horses you need to ride later.

Your first few fences are best done up and down the centre line in trot to allow your horse time to see the fence and get used to the idea. Use the time wisely. It’s a great place to jump as it concentrates your mind on straightness.

The turn onto the centre line is important. Turn your body and look at the marker at the far end. Looking where you want to go is the best way of insuring you get there. Time is short between your landing and the turn at the end so accept whichever pace you land in and push on to keep your horse’s hocks underneath him.

With a novice horse run through each direction of fence in trot before stringing them all together or attempting them in canter. Jumping across a straight fence on a diagonal line isn’t as hard as you may think. Put yourself in your horse’s position. Would you need to stop, look at the jump or question jumping it? It’s doubtful.

Jumping across a fence is actually quite straight forward as long as you’re prepared. Turn onto the diagonal and focus only on the marker you’re heading towards. Forget about the fence and let your horse do his job. He’s only likely to run out in one direction. He won’t turn towards it. So keep a good contact on the rein nearest the jump and ride forward.

Your landing after a fence on the diagonal is important. Riders often allow their horse to cut off the corner but imagine if you wanted to turn straight down the centre line over the fence again. Look at the marker you’re heading for and ride to it. Plenty of inside leg will push your horse out towards the track. Keep both hands level to keep his shoulders together and hold your contact.

Although you may want to give your horse a clear run at the fence don’t forget you can shorten your approach or landing. Using the ¾ line as your furthest point instead of the track will make life much more challenging.

Always shorten your approach before the landing. It’s far easier to unintentionally allow your horse to cut corners as he lands than as you approach the fence. Do that and he’ll lose balance. It may not notice over the next fence but during a course it will take its toll. An unbalanced horse will stop, run out or – even worse when you’re under time pressure – have a pole down.

How you tie these fences together is your call. An experienced horse ought to be able to turn from diagonal to centre line every time whereas a young horse will benefit from using the long sides to rebalance. Whatever you do I’ll guarantee you’ll have more time and jump more fences using this single fence than you will if you put out a complete course.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Lorraine
lorraine.jennings@hotmail.co.uk
www.schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com
Twitter – @pollson

The Equestrian Store www.theequestrianstoreni.com

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Let Your Horse do his Job

Posted on October 31, 2011 by GuestBlogger

This week out hacking I came across a tree blocking the track. Unless I turned round and rode back the way I’d come there was only one alternative. A 1:3 downhill scramble through the trees. To me it was no contest. I hate back-tracking.

So, I leant back, pointed my horse in the right direction and let him get on with it. I’m a great believer in allowing my horses to do their job and not interfering too much. This time was no different. He sat right back on his hocks and scrambled down through the trees until we popped out twenty metres further down onto the track.

OK it was a bit ‘hairy’ in places but what else could I do? If I’d have snatched at his reins, tried to steer or steady him I’d have probably distracted him and we’d both have come a cropper. As it was he knew where we had to go – he’s a horse not an idiot – and he had the four legs on the ground that were going to get us there. And they did.

The whole point of mentioning this was the walk my horse had after coming down that hill. Unbelievable! It was more engaged than it had ever been. I strongly recommend it to anyone.

You’ve probably heard the expression ‘ride your horse uphill’ but when you go up a hill what do you do? Lean forward and take your weight out of the saddle? It’s absolutely no help to any horse at any other time. BUT if you ride downhill you sit back and position your weight over his hocks. It’s something to think about next time you feel your trot’s a bit flat. Lean forward or to the side and you’ll always unbalance your horse but what’s the worst thing that can happen if lean back? He gets his weight on his hocks.

If jumping is your thing then you may think this post has little relevance to your position but it does. Obviously the way your horse approaches and leaves a fence is important so the more you can sit back and drive his hocks under his body the better. But your position over it can make a big difference to your horse’s balance too.

Many riders try too hard. They throw themselves forward on take off and hold their position for far too long. When they land they’re still forward and down over their horse’s shoulders and it takes three strides to get back up. With all that extra weight over his shoulders is it any wonder he has the next fence down?

In fairness it is understandable. You see it on the TV often enough. The only difference is the size of the fence. When you’re jumping anything over 1.10m the time you spend in the air is considerably longer than if you’re hopping over a cross pole. Your pro riders may well be in jumping position for longer but it’s still only from take off to landing. Watch them out in the warm up over a x-pole and you’ll see they barely get up out of the saddle let alone lean forward.

The main reason for the jumping position is to keep you balanced. You want to put yourself in the best position possible to help your horse carry you over – and clear – the fence. When the fence is small he’s up and over very quickly. Therefore all that’s required from you is a quick lift up out of the saddle with your seat and a tilt of your upper body so you go with the movement and don’t get left behind.

Put three small fences along the centre line at D, X and G. Your aim is to circle across the school over these fences in any order you choose. Initially stay on one rein so you focus on keeping your canter smooth. The main thing is your position over the fence. Remember all you need to do is clear the saddle and tip forward a couple of inches. The less effort you make the sooner you’ll be upright after the fence.

This exercise helps because you’re constantly turning. That’s a good enough reason to sit back up again. Too many riders practise over fences at E and B on the inside track but this means you have at least four strides in a straight line before you turn. If you’re late sitting up it’s unlikely to cause a problem.

As you improve and your horse settles change the rein over the fence at X. You can either jump it at an angle from a long diagonal or from E to B. Either way remember your jumping position is little more than a hiccup over the fence.

We all want help our horses whether we’re on the flat, out hacking or jumping. It can be difficult not to try too hard but riding is a partnership between you and your horse. Sometimes you just have to let him do his job and not get in his way.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Lorraine
lorraine.jennings@hotmail.co.uk
www.schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com
Twitter – @pollson

The Equestrian Store www.theequestrianstoreni.com

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One Step Ahead

Posted on October 18, 2011 by blogger

Over the years I’ve had the opportunity to ride all kinds of horses. It comes with the job. The type of horse I like is irrelevant when it comes to what I ride for work or for my husband, Steve. I’ve learnt the hard way how to deal with horses that are bigger and stronger than me. The trick is not to let them know they are.

(For reasons he has yet to share with me) Steve is drawn to horses of dubious character. They know their own mind and expect everyone else to know it too. Whilst Steve picks up the reins and takes them out to play it’s me that has to look after the little cherubs and get them fit.

Bear in mind that Steve is twice my size and weight and you’ll appreciate that it can be challenging to say the least. The good thing is I like a challenge. I have to. If I didn’t our horses would spend an awful lot of time on the lunge.

On the flat it’s not difficult to keep a temperamental or sharp horse occupied but when it comes to jumping life can get tricky. It’s then I need to use my head. There’s no benefit in schooling if I’m going to let them take charge every time we put a fence up.

If your horse gets stronger with every fence you jump then perhaps it’s time for you to take charge. You’ll never be stronger than he is but you are more intelligent.

When your horse gets strong he’s either hollowing with his head up or running onto his shoulders and leaning on your hand. Either way his hocks aren’t underneath him. Hard as it may seem the best thing to do is sit back and push on. Push him forward with your lower leg but squeeze into the saddle with your thigh and knee. That will push his hocks further under his body without him going faster.

(If you’re unsure how to use your thigh and knee check out one of the earlier posts on this blog – The Other Way of Stopping)

If your horse pulls there’s no point pulling back. Pull one side and then the other and you’ll only succeed in swinging his head from side to side. (Imagine trying to read this while someone pulled your head from side to side. How irritating would that be?)

Moving your fingers on the reins – as if you’re drumming them on a table – will stop you both setting against each other. Your horse can only lean on something solid. If he can’t lean he’ll have to sit back on his hocks to stay balanced.

Horses that pull or tank do it because they’re not listening. It’s a habit which can be broken. They need to be taught to pay attention to you. Here’s how -

Put three straight bar fences on the E-B line at X and by E and B on the inside track. The challenge of this exercise shouldn’t be the height of the fences. Keep them small enough that they don’t worry you but big enough to keep your horse focused.

This positioning gives you a variety of fences to jump:

The E/B fences can be jumped by riding straight down the school, from an 18m circle at E or B or by riding a circle of about 15 metres over both of them.

The fence at X can be jumped from the centre line, across the diagonals or even by riding a 10m circle from E or B.

You decide which fence to jump and from which direction but keep your options open. The instant you feel your horse speeding up or setting against you do something different – ride a 10m circle or change the rein. You’re still working him over fences but you’re keeping him guessing so he has to focus.

You’re aim is to show your horse there’s nothing to get tense about. Nor is there a time when he gets to dictate the rules. The more often you’re one step ahead of him the quicker he’ll learn you’re the boss.

The beauty of the position of these three fences is the ability to change direction at the last minute but be careful. Last minute changes have to be ridden clearly. Swing him from one line to another and you run the risk of surprising him rather than making him listen. Too many surprises create tension and that’s probably what started this in the first place!

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Lorraine
lorraine.jennings@hotmail.co.uk
www.schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com
Twitter – @pollson

The Equestrian Store www.theequestrianstoreni.com

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Don’t Swing the Changes

Posted on September 16, 2011 by GuestBlogger

When I was younger there were very few equestrian programmes on TV. When Olympia came on it was a big event. Every time I saw it I felt inspired to jump bigger and better fences.

Sadly my pony didn’t watch the same programmes! I’d spend hours setting up a course in our field. I used everything our yard had to offer only to find she wouldn’t even jump the first fence! Her idea of a spread was two poles lying on the ground side by side. Try as I might I couldn’t fill her with an ounce of enthusiasm.

My second horse was at least willing to try. Having watched Harvey Smith, David Broome and the wonderful Caroline Bradley soaring over huge fences I’d go straight out the next day to practice. Problem was nothing I saw them do seemed to make any difference to my long suffering horse. In fact it seemed to make things worse.

How many times have you watched someone ride at a show and decided to try what they’re doing with your horse only to find, when you get home and have a go, it actually has the opposite effect?

If you’re a dressage enthusiast perhaps you’ve watched your local pro warming their horse up ‘long and low’. You’ve probably gone home and had a go with your horse. How long did it take you to realise you were just riding about with long reins? Often what you think you see isn’t actually what’s happening.

If that sounds familiar check out my other blog -http://schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com/2011/08/soft-in-back-or-head.html for some ideas on loosening up your horse’s back.

If it’s the show jumpers you watch then you’ll no doubt have been inspired to teach your horse to land on the correct lead. It has something to do with hanging off the side as you land from a fence – or so you thought. The thing is when you try it your horse just refuses to change …

Watch the pro’s carefully. They turn but they never lean. Their seat and legs stay still. Their upper bodies turn from the waist and they look the way they want to go. Their horses stay balanced and because of that they’re free to change legs. Think about it. If flying changes involved horses being overbalanced then our top dressage riders would all be hanging off the side!

Assume you want to turn left after a fence. As you land do you throw yourself to the left, hoping to encourage your horse to land on the left lead? What you’re actually doing is putting all your weight on his left front leg. If you were him and felt all that weight on your left side what would you do? You’d probably stick out your right leg to balance yourself. Which lead would you take? The right.

You can teach your horse to land on the correct lead over a fence but you won’t teach him by unbalancing him. Do that and the best you can hope for is a change behind making him disunited. He’ll wobble round the next corner and if you’re lucky he’ll change over the next fence. If you’re not he’ll knock it down.

If you want to teach your horse to change over a fence try this –

Put an upright fence on the FXH diagonal at X. This isn’t the fence you’re going to change over. This is the fence that shows your horse you’re changing the rein. Put another fence on the diagonal between the ¾ line and H. As he jumps it he’ll be turning towards the new rein and naturally take the correct lead.

If you’re thinking “my horse won’t” it’s because you’re not sitting correctly. How would you ask for a flying change? You’d half-halt and put your new outside leg back to tell your horse to change. That’s all you do over a fence.

Over the fence put your outside leg back. This tells your horse you want him to ‘strike off’ with his left hind

As you land look and turn your body towards C. He’ll copy what you do with your body. If his body is turned towards C he’ll naturally take the right lead.

Check your outside rein as you ride away. This will keep his weight on both shoulders. (Avoid pulling his head to the inside. This puts all his weight to the left again and will encourage him to take the other lead.)

Some horses find the idea of changing much harder than others. In that case you can put extra fences at C and M. All you have to do is keep him balanced around the curve. If it takes him the whole of the short side to change don’t panic. He’ll learn. The calmer you are the sooner he’ll understand. Gradually the penny will drop and you can remove one fence at a time. Eventually you’ll find he’ll change leg over X before you’ve had a chance to ask him.

Jumping horses often have unrealistic expectations from their riders. Dressage horses don’t have to do a flying change until Advanced Medium. Be patient. Trying too hard and over riding causes more problems than it cures. The less you do the easier it is for your horse to understand your aids. Rush him and he’ll tighten his back. If his back is tense he can’t change leg.

All horses can change leg. They do it in the field on their own. Avoid unbalancing your horse and his legs will take care of themselves.

Good luck.

Lorraine
lorraine.jennings@hotmail.co.uk
www.schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com
Twitter – @pollson

The Equestrian Store www.theequestrianstoreni.com

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Refuse to Accept Refusals

Posted on August 25, 2011 by GuestBlogger

Does your horse spend more time running round fences than he does jumping over them? Then it’s time to show him who’s boss.

I honestly believe if you can get your horse to a fence you can get him over it. If he stops then it’s either because you stopped riding him or you’ve over faced him (or yourself). The odd stop can be put down to experience. Don’t dwell on it. Running out on the other hand is only down to one thing. Rider error.

If your horse runs out it could be because he’s worried or he thinks you’re a pushover.  Why isn’t important. It’s something you can work on at home.

A low straight bar is best. X poles are great if your horse is willing. If he’s likely to run out the last thing you need is to end up facing the high end of one! The height of this fence is important. It needs to be low enough that you can make him jump or step over it from a standstill. He needs to know you’ll make him jump whatever he does.

You could be forgiven for thinking it’s best to build a fence on the inside track opposite E/B. Don’t! This gives your horse too much time to plan his line of escape. Put it at X facing E/B. He’ll have less time to think and you can work on both reins.

The best way to solve a problem is to break it down. Think about why your horse runs out. Why can he suddenly veer off the line you had him on? Because you let him.

Check your position and your aids. All riders remember to sit up and look up when they land but do you ever think about your leg position? If you’re stiff in your hips you’ll find you legs swing back as you lean forward. If you don’t correct them when you land they’ll be too far back when you come to the fence again. This means your seat is less secure, your legs are less effective and your horse has a way out.

Your legs control your horse’s body but without a consistent contact you’re wasting your time. A steady contact contains energy, keeps him off his shoulders and gives him confidence. Your hands control his shoulders. Think of him as an arrow. Wherever you point his front end the rest of him will follow. Keep your hands together and you’ll keep him straight to the fence.

Sit back all the way to a fence. Tipping forward three strides from it unbalances you and puts your horse onto his shoulders. The combination of both these things allows him to get away from you.

If your horse runs out you’re allowing him to dictate the speed on the approach to the fence. Keep him steady – trot while you sort the problem out if you have to. Once a horse learns you have regained control he’ll remember. As long as you don’t whack up a big fence and over face yourselves again he’ll give in.

Putting the fence at X gives your horse less time to accelerate. Horses often do this as a way to get away from you so they can run out. Keeping your speed steady and keeping your hands and contact consistent should ensure you can get him to the middle of the fence. Do that and you’re more than halfway there.

His sense of humour may get the better of him when he realises you can control him. He might throw in a stop. DON’T turn him away. Make him step over the fence or jump it but never allow him to realise he can turn away and do it again.

You may think if you ride this exercise your horse will start running out again when the fence gets bigger but why would he? Think about it. You’ve taught him you can control him. You’ve shown him you can get him to the middle of a fence and you’re not going to take no for an answer. If you’re straight and riding forward there’s only one place he’s going to go. Over. Make sure you go with him!

At a show do what you want to do. It’s too easy to be swayed by others. They don’t have to jump the fences though, do they? If you’ve entered a class and done well enjoy the moment. Take your rosette and go home. Thinking you’re on a roll and putting yourself into the next class may well back fire. Better to end the day on a high rather than with a high score!

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Lorraine
lorraine.jennings@hotmail.co.uk
www.schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com
Twitter – @pollson

The Equestrian Store www.theequestrianstoreni.com

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It’s in Your Hands

Posted on August 4, 2011 by GuestBlogger

Did you know horses don’t have a collar bone? This means they can move their shoulders independently of each other. Interesting as that may be it can be seriously annoying when it comes to them falling in on the turn into a fence.

The chances are if your horse falls in you grab your outside rein and back it up with your inside leg. The theory’s good but it’s not ideal. He’ll be looking away from the fence as he turns and there’s a good chance he’ll have a pole down if you can’t get him straight before he takes off.

The answer to this problem lies in your hands. Both of them. They control everything in front of your saddle – your horse’s head, neck and shoulders. When your hands stay together so do your horse’s shoulders. The slightest movement, however, can have a dramatic effect.

Often the problem is caused as you turn to look at the fence. Without realising it your inside hand drops down or away from your outside hand. As your hands get further apart so do your horse’s shoulders. When you feel him fall in your instant reaction will be to pull him out with your outside rein. Now your hands are further apart exaggerating the problem! By the time you think to use your inside leg it’s too late.

You may lift your outside hand as you try to pull your horse out. He’ll copy what you do with your hands with his shoulders. If he lifts his outside shoulder the inside one will be lower. More weight falls to the inside making him fall in even further.

So in theory the answer is simple. You need to keep a contact in both reins and keep your hands together and level. That’s easier said than done. It takes practice but it’s like rising trot. Once you get the knack you’ll wonder why you ever found it difficult.

Practice riding circles, serpentines or turns across the diagonal. Pin your elbows to your sides and turn your body from your waist taking your hands and arms round as one unit. You may feel a bit robotic to start with but, as it becomes more natural, you’ll start to relax and eventually you’ll feel as if you’ve always been doing it.

It’s amazing to think that one small thing can have such an effect but it does. Watch top riders and you’ll see many styles and idiosyncrasies but the one thing they always have is a regular contact on both reins. Do you ever see them fall in on a turn?

When you’re putting all your effort into holding your horse out with your outside rein you’re probably losing the contact on the inside rein. Whenever you lose your contact you allow energy to escape. When your horse stops using his hocks correctly he falls onto his shoulders. Is it any wonder he falls in on those turns?

If your hands stay together your turns will improve. They’ll be sharper and more balanced. There will also be a lot less going on for your horse to think about. If your hands stay still he’ll only have to concentrate on going forward and looking at the fence. And so will you.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Lorraine
lorraine.jennings@hotmail.co.uk
www.schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com
Twitter – @pollson

The Equestrian Store www.theequestrianstoreni.com

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Forewarned or Forworried?

Posted on June 30, 2011 by GuestBlogger

What does your horse do? He must have some trait or other? His previous owner would have warned you about it. It’s a good thing, right? Forewarned is forearmed? Not always …

In my teens I had a horse that would jump anything as long as it didn’t have a ditch under it. In that case he’d stop six strides away and refuse to budge. In the end I think I had as much of a problem as he did.

I was offered the ride on a friend’s daughter’s horse while she took a year out. As far as I was aware ‘Donald’ was a saint. Mainly because he jumped ditches! I was ecstatic to ride something which didn’t seem to notice when I took my leg off, assumed the crash position and closed my eyes.

We had a great summer, sweeping the board at the local ODEs and even went on to try our hand over a BHS Novice course. I’d never been so nervous in my entire life but I had complete faith in Donald and he got me home in one piece.

When the season came to an end I gave him back and only then did his owner mention the fact he was a ‘bit sticky’ with drop fences. When I asked her why she hadn’t told me she said we were doing so well she didn’t think it mattered.

She was right. It didn’t. If I had known I would have ridden him differently. As it was I kicked on in happy oblivion and Donald took his confidence from me.

Donald taught me something which has changed the way I approach every horse I’ve ridden since. Now I only operate on a ‘need to know’ basis. If it’s not life threatening then I don’t want to know about it. Why spoil things with unnecessary negativity?

Everything we do with our horses centres around the relationship we have with them. Some of us spend more time with them than we do with members of our family! Your horse should be your best friend. He certainly shouldn’t be frightened of you.

The situation I had with Donald was a prime example of how a good relationship can create confidence between you and your horse. Had I known about the drop issue I’d have come into the first drop fence I met kicking harder than I needed to, whip at the ready, sitting braced for a stop.

His reaction would have been understandable. As I grabbed the reins and kicked harder he’d have tightened his back, shortening his strides. This would have changed his rhythm and put him out of balance. He’d have got into the fence on a wrong stride, thought “I told you these were a problem” and either heaved himself up and over, giving himself a horrible landing on the other side or he’d have stopped. When he did stop I would (of course) have shortened my reins and smacked him.

But I didn’t know, did I? I treated every fence as if it was going to be easy. He did the same. And, guess what? They invariably were.

The problem comes, of course, when you already know your horse’s faults. What can you do about that? How about nothing? Seriously. You’ve probably tried all the other alternatives anyway. Avoid the issue for a few months. Go away and have some fun.

If your horse hates fillers why canter round and round the school over them brandishing your whip or shouting? What will he learn from that? He’ll remember the tension but he won’t think “That was a relaxing and fun time – note to self – be sure to do the same next time.” Try jumping anything but fillers for a few months. Don’t cause an argument for the sake of one. It won’t make either of you feel good.

If your horse likes to stick his head between his knees and rodeo when you ask for canter from trot avoid the transition! Ask from walk. It will be good for his schooling anyway and it means you can start to relax without the build up of tension there invariably is when you anticipate a problem. If he only does it between C and H then don’t ask in that corner. Give yourself time to get your nerve back.

The simple answer to any problem is if it worries you don’t do it! Take time away from the situation. It’s not a cop out. It’s the sensible thing to do. As your relationship improves you’ll feel ready to tackle the problem again and when you do you’ll probably find it’s gone away anyway.

When I was training we used to call our first ride The Suicide Shift. My boss used to smile as we left the yard. “You get paid to ride other people’s crazy horses!” she’d call. “You want to enjoy it? Buy your own.”  She had a point.

You bought your horse. Make sure you enjoy him.

Have fun!

Lorraine
lorraine.jennings@hotmail.co.uk
www.schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com
Twitter – @pollson

The Equestrian Store www.theequestrianstoreni.com

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Not Just a Speed

Posted on June 22, 2011 by GuestBlogger

A spectator could be forgiven for thinking that the individual show in the Working Hunter was the same as any other showing class. Sadly a WH judge would probably agree with them. The trouble is a Working Hunter show is meant to be different. The judge wants to see four paces. More often than not they see three.

Many a well schooled horse has fallen at this final hurdle. They float through their show with polished transitions and seamless changes of leg. It’s not surprising. Most riders work hard on their trot. They spend weeks perfecting their transitions and changes of leg in canter but when it comes to the gallop they seem to think if they kick on and drop the reins that will be enough. It’s just a fast canter – right? Wrong!

Think about it. Is trot a fast walk? Or canter a fast trot? No. They’re all paces and ones which have very different mechanics. Many riders fail to realise that gallop is a pace not a speed. It’s understandable. Were you ever taught how to gallop?

The gallop is totally unique because your horse will move both hind legs before his front legs. If he starts with his right hind he’ll follow with the left hind, the right fore and finish with the left fore. To do that he must have his weight on his hocks.

As with all paces the transition is important. Start well and you’ll show a clear difference between one pace and the next. A poor transition in the other three paces will only result in a poor pace. Get the gallop transition wrong and your horse can’t physically do it.

To enable your horse to gallop he must stay on his hocks. To do this you must maintain a steady contact. Drop it and kick on and he’ll fall straight onto his shoulder. If he does that he’ll have to put out a front leg to balance himself as he moves a hind leg forward. That’s canter not gallop.

You need to teach your horse the aids. He needs to learn that a light seat plus leg means go forward. You can do this in the school. Although your speed will be restricted you can help him to understand the theory before you take him into a field.

Canter large, shortening your canter on the short sides. As you turn onto the long sides lean slightly forward, taking your weight out of the saddle. Use your heels once, take them away and use them again. At no time should you let go of your contact.

Your horse should move forward immediately on the first use of your leg. The second push is to confirm the aid. At the end of the long side sit back into the saddle. This will slow your horse instantly. Squeeze your knees into the saddle (see The Other Way of Stopping) and close your fingers around your reins to bring him back to the speed you want. Remember to keep your lower leg on to keep him cantering.

When you move out into a field check the ground carefully. Chose a large field with even ground and check for rabbit holes. If the field has a slight incline even better. The hill will help to keep your horse engaged.

If showing is your thing then it’s important to practice on your own. Riding with others is fun but you’ll lose the transition. Horses are more likely to be excited or tense in company. If their back is tight then they’ll take shorter more hurried steps. This can only be a fast canter.

In the field use the same system as you used in the school. Ride a steady canter along one side of the field. Turn the corner, get straight and get up out of the saddle. You may need to use your legs for three or four strides. Your horse has had a lifetime of being told to slow down and behave. He may not believe you really mean it!

Please note! Gallop is smooth. Despite the fact you are moving as fast as your horse can physically move it will feel effortless. If his legs feel like they are going at 100mph then they probably are! That’s a fast canter. It’s great fun for hacking but not what they’re looking for in a Working Hunter.

Take time to practice these transitions. It will make a huge difference to your individual show. Be the only one to demonstrate four clear paces and you could find yourself at the head of the line next time.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Lorraine
lorraine.jennings@hotmail.co.uk
www.schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com
Twitter – @pollson

The Equestrian Store www.theequestrianstoreni.com

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You Started But Did You Finish?

Posted on June 3, 2011 by GuestBlogger

When was the last time you notched up four faults or more? In the after show analysis the conversation probably started with “He jumped the first fence nicely but …”

How did you finish that sentence? “… I couldn’t hold him to the second fence.” “… he died in front of fence four.” “… he was just so strong to the last.” Sound familiar? You wouldn’t be alone if you blamed your approach to the fence but think again. Try looking at things from a different perspective. Take a look at your landing.

When your horse lands his weight naturally falls onto his shoulders. If you don’t push on to keep his hocks underneath him he’ll lose a little more impulsion at each fence. Without energy you’ll lose rhythm. Without rhythm you won’t be able to see when you’re going to meet the next fence. It’s a common problem which is often blamed on the take off not the landing.

The minute your horse puts his front feet on the ground your legs should be pushing him forward. Some riders are so relieved (or surprised) to be in the air they spend more time patting than they do thinking about the next fence. It’s not until three strides after the fence that they remember to kick on! Try to keep your mind on the job. There will be plenty of time for patting later.

Your hands have a huge effect on your horse. He’ll forgive you a mistimed kick here and there but every time you give him a tug in the mouth he’ll tighten his back. Pulling too soon because you’re worried he’s getting strong will guarantee he tenses his back. The chances are he’ll drop his back legs on the fence and have a pole down. How many times has that happened to you and you’ve blamed it on the fact he got strong into the fence and took a flier?

Both these problems have the same solution. You need to learn to ride as positively away from a fence as you do into it. Simple positioning of a single fence at home can have a dramatic effect.

Most riders will build a fence at E or B. It’s the natural place to put it but it can cause problems. It gives you an obvious start and finish. If your horse is strong you’ll subconsciously give yourself until the end of the school to try and establish control. Instead of thinking forward you’ll be solely focused on stopping. The ‘happy patter’ will pat their horse to the end of the school. Then they’ll worry about getting started again. Before they know it they’ll have a horse which expects to get a breather between every fence.

Try putting a fence at X on the E-B line. You’ll need to jump it on a 20m circle from A or C. This has a positive effect on you and your horse. You’ll have to ride forward when you land to keep him on the circle. The tightness of the curve will mean he has to stay back on his hocks to stay balanced.

When the fence is at E your horse knows exactly where he’s going. With it in this position you can vary things to keep his attention. Ride a couple of circles at one end, go large and circle at the other. It’s simple but effective.

There’s an added bonus too. You can change the rein over the fence. An experienced horse should change leg in the air but be sure to check as he lands. With young or novice horses you may find it easier to trot.

Practice your landings and your course jumping will improve. You should find your horse flows from one fence to the next. In time four faulters will be few and far between. Your after show analysis will be less about disasters and more about how to shave a few seconds off your jump off time so next time you come first and not third.

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Lorraine
lorraine.jennings@hotmail.co.uk
www.schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com
Twitter – @pollson

The Equestrian Store www.theequestrianstoreni.com

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The Good, The Bad and The Lazy

Posted on May 20, 2011 by GuestBlogger

When I started this blog I mentioned a horse I was looking after who’d broken his hip. Sadly we lost him last week. It was, and still is, a terrible thing for all concerned but life, unashamedly, moves on.

Many people offer sympathy. Most are quick to say “It only happens to the good ones.” They mean well and what else can they say? But they made me think. Is there really such a thing as a bad one?

Out of the hundreds of horses I’ve known over the years I can only think of one which came under the heading ‘bad’. And that’s now questionable.

The horse in question was 17 hands of sheer aggression. She was offered to me as a dressage prospect because the local eventers and show jumpers had both tried and failed. Her owner made no secret of the fact I was her last resort.

I can honestly say I’ve never had a horse so evil on the ground in my entire career. If she couldn’t get you with her telescopic back legs she’d try to get you with her teeth. She thought nothing of rearing up and coming at you with her front legs flailing.

Funny thing was when you were on her back she wasn’t bad. She just wasn’t amazing. It took several months for me to throw in the towel. The problem was she just wasn’t good enough. Had she been super talented she’d have been worth the hassle but my husband, quite rightly, was worried for my safety.

When the time came and she was put down she was found to have ovarian cysts. This may well have been the reason for her terrible behaviour. So that begs the question; was she really bad or was she just ill?

Personally I don’t think there is such a thing as a bad horse. I think there’s a bad partnership but not a bad horse. I believe every horse has a perfect rider out there somewhere but not all of them find each other.

My husband’s horse is a classic case. If ever a horse found his rightful place, he’s a prime example. As is the way with Steve’s choice of horse this one has suicidal tendencies. He’s quite safe really. As long as you’re hunting – and whipping in.

As a Whip’s horse he’s fantastic but he’s absolutely hopeless for anything else. That’s OK because we accept him for what he is. Had he ended up somewhere else he’d have been passed from pillar to post. He could easily have killed himself or his rider. Some would call him a ‘wrong un’.

He won’t be shod, clipped or even groomed without sedation. (Strangely you can cold hose him from top to toe.) For reasons known only to himself he’s a nervous wreck in a ménage and he ‘doesn’t do’ coloured poles. But he will jump a five bar gate from a stand still and canter down the central reservation of the M1 after a stray hound. What more can you want? At least that’s what Steve says …

Someone once told me, “You’ll put as much time into the wrong horse as you will into the right one. Only you’ll get it back 100 times from the right one.” It’s a piece of advice I’ve never forgotten.

Horses, like husbands, shouldn’t be taken on in the hope you can change them. Choose wisely. Pick a horse which wants to do what you want to do. And should you change your mind in a few years time have the decency to allow that horse to go and do what he wants to do with someone else. They will look after him and love him as much as you do, you know. It takes courage to admit that but be fair to your horse.

(OK – here’s the schooling bit)

There is an exception to the rule. You can change your horse’s response to your leg. Too many horses are allowed to slop along. It’s completely unnecessary and you can do something about it. Any horse can be taught to move forward from your leg. You just have to be consistent.

Start in walk. It’s the pace most riders avoid but the one you can have most effect on without getting tired. Your whole aim is going to be to get from one marker to the next without using your leg. Think it’s easy? Try it.

Many riders get into the rhythm of kicking every stride without even knowing they’re doing it. The horse then comes to rely on it. Before you know it you’ve got a lazy horse which is getting increasingly dead to your leg.

Start walking round the school. The top of your lower leg should rest against your horse’s sides. Your heel should stay away unless you need it – like a spur.

Give your horse a nudge with both heels at a marker to send him forward and then sit still. He should keep walking at the same speed until you tell him otherwise. If he slows down before the next marker give him a single nudge with both heels. If he still doesn’t react give him one sharp tap with your whip.

If you back up your leg with your whip every time he slows down eventually he’ll start to realise that if he keeps going it’s easier. Never feel bad for using a whip. Put yourself in your horse’s position. What would you prefer? One tap with a whip or a pair of heels constantly kicking your sides?

In the first session aim to get at least once round the school without kicking. You may need to spend a few sessions in walk but it will be worth it. When you have him going freely forward in walk you’ll find trot and canter much easier to change.

Some things can be changed but others are set in stone. Your horse’s personality is one of them. The next time he stops at a fence or spoils a canter transition stop and think. Is he really bad or just doing a job he never asked to do?

Of course he’s your horse but remember; if you wake up one morning and think “I’d like to have a go at show jumping” make sure you think to ask him too!

Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

Lorraine
lorraine.jennings@hotmail.co.uk
www.schoolyourhorse.blogspot.com
Twitter – @pollson

The Equestrian Store www.theequestrianstoreni.com

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